Three sketches of Kythira
Kythira is the type of island, that even the Greeks themselves do not know where to place – geographically it is a part of the Ionian Islands, and administratively it belongs to Athens. Here, we have three stories about this “confused” island.
Our first visit there was over Christmas, after a wintery and snowy journey on Peloponnese, followed by a stormy night on Monemvasia, where the wind finds its way into the room via the terrace door – the date is December 22nd, and no boat to Kythira is expected in the morning, as the wind is at 8-9 Beaufort. The next morning a group of characters have gathered at the harbour of Neapoli Voion, where the ferry should depart for Kythira – crazy optimists, since it’s Christmas and people just want to go home, and if the wind goes down to a 7 Beaufort, there will be a boat. And Poseidon has mercy – around noon the wind calms down, the boat sails, and after a shaky two hour journey through the foamy sea, we arrive on Kythira.
Potamos is the winter capital of Kythira. We are greeted by a red teapot in the local pub – the biggest comfort around Christmas. On the next day there is not a single cloud in the sky, the temperature goes up to 17-20 degrees, the sea is flat and blue, the grass is green and sheep are scattered all over the lawn – soft, southern winter. The nightlife on the island takes place at the local pub that goes by the name of Astikon – an old building from the beginning of the 20th century, where two things are of significant importance – backgammon and music. For Christmas, they have scheduled a jazz band from Crete, that we have been awaiting for three days, but they never arrived, due to the bad weather. But we went around all villages on the island and listened to good music every night in front of the red teapot - Blue in Green.
Our second meeting with Kythira is by water on a boat in July, with dynamic weather. The pilot books advice to tread lightly around Peloponnese and Kythira, as the weather is unpredictable. But nothing suggests there is any danger, and we arrive in the southern harbour Kapsali on a warm evening, with the sound of a saxophone traveling through the coast – Blue Bossa.
Those of the crew that wandered off on a walk to the castle have met some good island people on a short hitchhike. At dinner, we are blessed with the best red mullet yet. And the divers are preparing for a night lesson…
Our third visit – September, smooth, late summer arrival with no storms and cancelled ships and with no sailing – with the only aim being to get enough sleep and enjoy the beauty of the summer and the warm sea. On our way from the harbour, based off of previous experience, our first stop is one of the two markets on the islands. After that, fully stocked with provisions, we reach our destination. And we are sleeping right next to the most wonderful natural pool, where you can go in at any time. And nearby, a large, empty beach, where you can jump in the sea naked, with no one else around. Quiet, interrupted only by the song of the cicadas, blending in with time and the massive stars. And everything is just beginning…
Many swims in the natural pool followed, many trips around the island, visits to known and unknown places and most of all, full enjoyment of life. Becoming one with nature comes first here, everything is smooth, soft, and has a natural rhythm. Just like with João Gilberto and Stan Getz's So Danco Samba.
There is a reason that not even the Greeks know where to place this little piece of heaven. It just exists in the middle of the Mediterranean.
P.S. One of the most enjoyable things is to be putting together a piece on a shady veranda and to feel the breeze, completing the whole picture.
Enjoy the journey through Kythira with us!
September 2019
Photo ©МА
